From
Wikipedia, the free enciclopedia
A
conservation technician examining an artwork under a microscope at theIndianapolis Museum of Art
The conservation and
restoration of books, manuscripts, documents and ephemera is an activity
dedicated to the preservation and protection of items of historical and
personal value made primarily from paper, parchment, and leather. When
applied to cultural heritage conservation
activities are generally undertaken by aconservator-restorer.
Paper-based
items, such as books, scrapbooks, manuscripts, maps,
deeds, newspapers,
drawings, water colors, miniatures, and postcards present distinctive concerns
when it comes to care and conservation. Unlike works of art on paper, these
items are often handled directly and repeatedly to access information.[1] Even paperephemera like newspapers
and letters may be significant historical records or family mementos.[2]
Contents
[hide]
·
1History
o
2.2Pests
·
7Gallery
The
first substantial work on the subject of book restoration was Alfred Bonnardot's Essai sur l'art
de Restaurer les Estampes et les Livres,
first published in Paris in 1846.The first book of complete restorations,
published by Ferdinand Petrov Fine Art Restorer Conservator Vancouver Canada.
Title: The Art of Painting and The Art of Restoration, 484-pages, hard cover.
See on Google "Art restoration book-manual, for restoration, paintings,and
Paper borne Art Works Restoration in detail.
Inherent vice is "the
quality of a material or an object to self-destruct or to be unusually
difficult to maintain".[3] Paper, books,
manuscripts, and ephemera are prime examples of this. Early paper was handmade
from plant fibers such as flax, hemp, and cotton: it is generally durable and
can last for centuries.[4] However, in the
mid-19th century, machine-made paper was introduced, and wood became the most
common, least expensive ingredient, especially in newspapers. The presence of lignin in wood pulp
paper causes acid to degrade the cellulose, which
causes the paper to become unstable and discolored over time.[5] In addition,
paper has the natural ability to absorb and retain moisture from the
atmosphere, making it prone to the growth of mold, fungi, and bacteria.[6]
Books
are inherently complex; they are often made of mixed materials ranging from
parchment, leather, fabric, adhesives and thread. Some inks used in old books
and manuscripts are harmful to paper. Iron gall ink, most
commonly used from the 8th century through the end of the 19th century,
contains acid and can corrode the paper in humid conditions.[7]
Ephemera, as the
name implies, was never made to survive. Flyers, postcards, and programs are
often printed on poor quality paper, carelessly handled, and likely to be
haphazardly displayed or stored.[8]
Insects
and vermin are naturally attracted to paper because paper is made of cellulose,
starch and protein, materials that provide sources of nourishment.[6] The most common
pests are roaches, silverfish, and various types of beetles.[9] Book lice feed
on mold spores found on paper and cardboard, and although they do not cause
visible damage, their decomposition and excretions can stain paper and may also
nourish other pests, continuing the cycle of damage.[4] To best
discourage infestation, a clean and dust-free environment is desirable: food
and drink should be kept away from storage areas. If pests are discovered, they
should first be identified so that appropriate measures can be taken.[6] Freezing the
collection items is an option for pest mitigation: ideally (for dealing with
most insects) the center of the item should be frozen within four hours at a
temperature of -20°C (about -4 degrees Fahrenheit) for at least 72 hours,
following which the materials may be thawed over a 24-hour period.[9] However, some
materials should not be frozen, such as books made with leather, because the
cold temperatures may cause the fat to rise to the surface of the leather
resulting in a white or yellow area called a bloom.[9] The use of
insecticides directly on collection materials is not generally recommended.
However, if the infestation is severe, and fumigation is the best
option, the affected items should be separated from the rest of the collection
for treatment.[6]
Extremes
of temperature or relative humidity are damaging
from either end of the spectrum (low or high).[10] High heat and
low relative humidity can cause paper to become brittle and leather book
bindings to crack.[10] High
temperatures and high relative humidity accelerates mold growth, foxing, staining,
blooming, and disintegration. Fluctuations in temperatures and humidity may
also cause cockling: a wrinkling or puckering preventing the surface from
laying flat.[11] Precise
environmental levels for optimal preservation will depend on whether the
collection is for use, storage, or a combination: in general, a cool
environment (below 70 degrees Fahrenheit) and relatively dry air (between
30-50% relative humidity) is recommended.[12]
Air
quality must also be taken into consideration. Dust tends to absorb moisture,
providing a suitable environment to attract mold growth and insects.[13] Dust can also
become acidic when combined with skin oils and the surface of paper.[6]
All
kinds of light (sunlight, artificial light, spotlights) can be harmful.[7] Light can result
in fading, darkening, bleaching, and cellulose breakdown. Some inks and other
pigments will fade if exposed to light, especially ultraviolet (UV) light
present in normal daylight and from fluorescent bulbs.[13] Any exposure to
light can cause damage, as the effects are cumulative and cannot be reversed.[10] Minimal or no
exposure to light is ideal.
A
paper conservator handling a book.
Other
than a poor environment, poor handling is the primary cause of deterioration
for books, manuscripts, and ephemera.[8] Recommendations
for good handling to minimize damage include:
·
A clean work
area and clean hands. Food and drink should be kept away from collection
materials, and smoking avoided. Hands should be washed and dried immediately
before handling collection items. Hand lotions, creams and wipes should never
be used prior to handling items.[14]
·
Gloves should be
worn only when absolutely necessary, as they may reduce dexterity and feeling.[4] If worn, they
should be clean white cotton gloves.
·
Loose clothing,
jewelry, or buttons, may all cause damage, and should be kept under control.
The user should ensure he or she is seated or standing in a stable position.
Precautions should be taken if he or she is suffering from a cold.[4]
·
The bookmarking
of pages by use of paper clips, acidic inserts, or the folding of page corners
should be avoided.[15]
·
The use of
rubber bands, self-adhesive tape, any kind of "leather dressing", or
glue should all be avoided.[16] Adhesives can
leave stains and a damaging residue.[8]
·
A book should
not be forced further than its natural opening. Instead, the covers may be
propped on foam wedges to decrease the opening angle, and the pages held open
using book snake weights.[17]
·
The pages of a
bound manuscript should be turned slowly, and the leaves flexed as little as
possible, because decorations and inks may no longer be firmly attached to
parchment leaves.[14]
·
Books should be
removed from the shelf by gripping on both sides of the spine at the middle
(having, if necessary, pushed in the neighboring book on both sides to get a
good grip).[16] Both hands
should be used when removing large or heavy books from a shelf. If the volume
is horizontal in a stack of books, the books above it should be removed first.[7]
·
Pencil, not ink,
should be used to make any necessary marks or inscriptions. Inscriptions should
only be made when the paper is on a clean hard surface to avoid embossing the
inscription into the paper.[15]
·
A work in paper
should not be lifted by its edges. Instead, a thin support such as a folder or
foam board should be used.[19]
·
Parchment is not
as flexible as paper, and is more resistant to unfolding. It should not be
forced.[20]
·
Photocopying
that forces books to lie flat should be avoided. This may damage the spine and
weaken pages.[7]
·
Items should not
be piled on one another, and, for oversized items, a large clear space should
be prepared. Maps and blueprints that have been rolled may be gently unfolded
or unrolled if they are not brittle or weak. They can also be placed under
light weight for a few weeks to relax.[21]
A
paper conservator surveying a collection of materials in storage.
Good
storage can extend the life of an item and is an important aspect of
preventative conservation. Storage should be cool, dry, clean, and stable.[15] Items should be
kept away from radiators or vents, which can cause environmental fluctuations.[15]
Manuscripts
and paper documents should be stored in protective archival-quality boxes and
folders, made of acid-free and lignin-free materials.[22] Documents that
might be handled often may be stored or encapsulated in a clear polyester (Mylar) film
sleeve or folder. As added protection acid formation, paper-based storage
materials may have a buffer, such as calcium carbonate, which can neutralize
acids as they form in the storage materials.[22] Boxes should not
be overfilled. Items may be interleaved with acid/lignin-free paper.[13] If boxes are
only partially full, spacers may be used, or the box may be stored
horizontally.[4] Large format
material is best stored in a plan cabinet with shallow drawers.[13] The rolling of
large items (e.g. maps) should be avoided where possible; but if there is no
other option, the item should be rolled around a large diameter archival
quality tube.[23] The outside of
the rolled item may also be covered with archival quality paper.[23]
The
best shelving for books is baked enamel steel shelving that stands away from
exterior walls. Average size books should be shelved vertically, side-by-side
so they can support each other.[18] If a book is
removed from the shelf, it may be replaced with a foam block to maintain
verticality.[19] Shelves should
not be overpacked. Oversized or fragile books may be stored horizontally and
completely flat, but stacking should be kept to a minimum.[7] Books should be
placed in supportive and protective boxes, to prevent soiling and abrasion as
well as to provide structural support. Book boxes may range from simple
four-flap enclosures made of archival safe paper or cardboard to custom
clamshell or drop-spine boxes covered in book cloth.[18]
·
Surface cleaning:
Paper and leather can be dusted with a soft brush, and dust can be removed from
books with a vacuum cleaner that has a cheesecloth tied over the nozzle.[24] Nonchemical
vulcanized rubber sponges or nonabrasive erasing materials such as vinyl
erasers are also used. Care must be taken: an inappropriate cleaning technique
could permanently ingrain dirt or remove media.[4]
·
Mold and insect
removal: Insect accretions and mold residues are normally
removed by scalpels, aspirators, or specialized vacuum cleaners. Deep freezing
may be appropriate to kill insects.[25]
·
Adhesive removal:
Some adhesive materials are acidic and harmful to paper, causing stains.
Repairs made with water-based adhesives such as animal glue can be removed in a
water bath, by local application of moisture, or with poultices or steam.
Synthetic adhesives and pressure-sensitive (self-adhering) tapes usually have
to be dissolved or softened with an organic solvent before they can be removed.
Steam is sometimes helpful to remove adhesive.[25]
·
Washing and
alkalization: Washing not only removes dirt and aids in stain
reduction; it can also wash out acidic compounds and other degradation products
that have built up in the paper. Washing can also relax brittle or distorted
paper and aid in flattening. When washing alone does not combat acidity, the
addition of an alkaline buffer to paper is sometimes recommended for
de-acidification. Alkalization can be achieved by immersion or by spraying.[25]
·
Mending and
filling: Severe tears that cannot be stabilized with
polyester film can usually be mended on the reverse with narrow strips of torn Japanese tissue. The
strips are adhered with a permanent, nonstaining adhesive such as starch paste
or methyl cellulose. Holes or paper losses may be filled individually with
Japanese paper, with paper pulp, or with a paper carefully chosen to match the
original in weight, texture, and color.[25]
·
Sewing and
rebinding: Books with broken sewing, loose or detached
boards or leaves require special care.[26] Several
techniques are used in conservation binding. The original sewing in a volume
should be retained if this is possible; it can be reinforced using new linen
thread and sewing supports.[27] If the original
binding is too deteriorated, the book may be rebound with new archival safe
materials. An alternative to a leather-covered laced-in structure is a
split-board structure, which can be covered in leather or cloth.[27]
·
Backing:
Weak or brittle paper may be reinforced by backing them with another sheet of
paper. Again, Japanese paper can be used as a backing, adhered with a starch
paste.
·
Flattening:
Flattening is always necessary following aqueous treatment. Flattening is also
helpful for rolled or folded paper that cannot gently and safely be opened. It
is usually done between blotters or felts under moderate pressure.[25]
·
Emergencies and
disasters: Most natural or man-made disasters, such as
floods or fire, involve water. Even a small amount of water from a leaky roof
or pipe can do significant damage to a paper collection. Immediate response by
a knowledgeable professional or agency within the first 48 hours is crucial to
the successful salvage of materials and the prevention of mold growth. Wet
paper or books may be frozen to stabilize them; they can be thawed and dried at
a later time.[24]
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